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Diamante Dreaming: Cartier’s Crystallizing Capsule Collection

As if Cartier couldn’t get more appealing, the French Maison releases their latest line of Haute Joaillerie Beautés du Monde to keep the jet set shining spectacularly at the uttermost ends of the earth.

  • May 8, 2023
  • chicicon_user
  • 3 minute read
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In this article, Chic Icon breaks down the most extraordinary pieces from the collection. As a testament to the timelessness and universality of the brand’s fine jewelry, Cartier has unveiled Beautés du Monde, or “Beauties of the World”, featuring exquisite precious stones set in white gold and glistening shades of red, blue, and green scattered throughout the collection. The collection is comprised mostly of intricate princess-length necklaces focused on illuminating each colorful array of stones. However, Cartier complements these pieces with four nature-inspired brooches and a capsule collection of seven rings.

Underlying themes of diversity and the preservation of nature are visibly expressed in the collection Beautés du Monde – perhaps as a subtle nod to Cartier’s sustainable approach to craftsmanship and production in an otherwise oversaturated and automated jewelry industry – and the gems’ color schemes follow suit. Gleaming pinks and bold primary colors are ubiquitous throughout the collection and are combined with carefully placed diamonds.

We begin with the succinct assortment of brooches, where Cartier utilizes motifs from this prominent concept of preserving life in its purest form. An elephant curls its trunk and legs into an embryonic position, seemingly to guard the precious gem inlaid above its trunk.

A crystalized peacock drapes gemstones of pear-green and sky blue intertwined with a tail of shining diamonds. Aqua green and deep blue are blended to create a speckled effect in a dragonfly’s closed wings and accented with a bright green emerald held in the clutches of the dragonfly’s legs.

Splenden’s Necklace

Typical of Cartier, chains comprised of hanging jewels are frequently used in this collection, giving the impression of movement and delicacy. For example, The Splenden’s Necklace offers a unique interpretation of the fighting fish and its seemingly floating fins. Cascading spinel beads are meticulously organized in incrementing sizes and connected by tiny nails placed in the center of an invisible cap inside each piece. The surface of these nails refracts the light, like water on the scales of a fish. This ensemble is fitted with nine oval and pear-shaped spinels totaling almost 28 carats and studded with square or lozenge diamonds.

CAMAIL NECKLACE

Another extraordinary piece from the collection Beautés du Monde that exhibits a refreshing depiction of nature’s perfection is the Camail Necklace, which resembles a bird’s plumage in the form of a slinking choker. Feats of jewelry-making prowess are also evident in this necklace, from the supple movement of the chain to the delicate resting positions of the gems. Invisible articulations are used to give the Camail its captivating form and prong-free settings are utilized to house five Zambian emeralds totaling up to 42.44 carats. Custom-cut onyx and curves of square diamonds are featured to punctuate the end of the pear-shaped diamonds.

The assemblage of rings that complete this collection is crafted with inspiration drawn from the beauty of the world. Seven pieces — perhaps an ode to the seven wonders of the world — are all elaborate in detail and significance. Cartier defines each ring as concentrating the “extraordinary creativity of the universe, on their own scale and as if in miniature”. Designs include a geological crystallization, an ammonite fossil, a sea monster, a carapace from a drawing in an old biology book, a chimera, a constellation, and a Chinese puzzle, all entirely encrusted in brilliant diamonds and precious gems.

Water Aspis Necklace

Our favorite piece? The Water Aspis Necklace. Individually cut pieces of lapis lazuli are laid alongside tiny geometric patterns of diamonds to give the collar a scale-like effect. Sharp ridge-like triangles of glistening white diamonds and hypnotic blue lapis lazuli meticulously mesh to bring the water aspis’s habitat to life.

Ryu Necklace

The final object d’art that we would like to highlight in this article is the Ryu Necklace. Inspired by the scales of a dragon, this jeweled masterpiece utilizes a sequence of octahedral gems, a cut rarely seen in jewelry. In this piece, 80 yellow diamonds weighing approximately 79 carats deliver a fascinating structure that hangs just below the neckline, illustrating Cartier’s passion for stones of character with singular shapes. These intensely lustrous diamonds are set in white gold and surrounded by a diamond-studded hexagon, multiplying the faceting work and setting the sparkle between the stones ablaze, forming a geometric mesh of radiance.

It’s a given that whenever Cartier releases a collection of jewelry, stunning pieces are to come. The company practically seethes class and prestige, whether it is with its iconic La Panthère collection or the extensive catalog of timeless watches. The most recent Beautés du Monde collection certainly has not disappointed us, but we are still excited to see what the French behemoth has in store for us next!

Read more JEWELRY articles HERE

Text by: Joseph McSherry
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