Thirty minutes by boat from the manic hustle and bustle of Naples lies the enchanting Island of Capri. Famed for being a super glamorous idyll frequented by everyone from Sophia Loren and Jackie Onassis in the 1970s to Beyonce, the Kardashians, and Valentino today, it seems this tiny little spot close to the Amalfi coast is beloved by all who visit. Me included.
I first fell in love with the Island when I visited more than ten years ago, and I honestly love it more now than ever. It has it all, and I don’t mean fancy shops, restaurants, and beach clubs, because of course it has those, and they are fabulous! But it has so much more. To stay there is to know the feeling of waking up surrounded by the fragrant breeze of the vibrant flowers, the bird song, and the serene beauty everywhere you look. It’s truly a paradise for me. I don’t know of anywhere else that is so peaceful yet exciting. Let me share all my favorite things to do and see on my favorite Island.
Where to stay
Believe me when I say you have to stay on the Island itself. Going for a day trip will not let you relax; you’ll be too busy getting jostled by hundreds of other day-trippers. Capri has two major parts, Capri and Ana Capri.
Ana Capri is a much quieter, peaceful place if that’s more your speed. There are lots of lovely hotels there, including the very grand Capri Palace hotel and spa, but if you want to feel part of the real Capri experience, you may feel too secluded.
The most famous hotel in Capri must be the grand dame, The Quisisana. It has a wonderful location, next to all the designer stores and the main plaza or “Piazzetta.” It’s a luxurious hotel in a more traditional style, like the Ritz.
If you’re looking for a more modern luxury experience, The Hotel Tragara would be a fabulous choice. An extremely chic 5 star that has the best view of the famous Faraglioni rocks and a Michelin-starred restaurant. I have never stayed there, but it looks incredible.
Our favorite place to stay, though, is a small boutique hotel run by the Esposito brothers, called La Minerva. It is the only place we go. The brothers make it so special, anyone who goes there feels at home. Everything is beautiful, the hotel, the decor, the swimming pool, the food, and most importantly, the people. Ah, I wish I was there now!
Beach clubs
Well, you can’t come to Capri and not experience the jet-set favorite, La Fontelina beach club. Those famous blue striped umbrellas are synonymous with the Island. I warn you though, book well in advance, as it’s always busy. Also, pack some comfortable shoes, getting there is not easy – the walk down those steps is not for the faint-hearted. I recommend getting the boat to Marina Piccola when you leave, as it’s such a beautiful little ten-minute boat trip. I will have to be honest, though. I adore this restaurant and come at least once, usually twice every trip; however, the service can be a little brusk, and there can be a lot of jostling for a “good table” by some of the clientele. However, one bite of their Linguine Vongole looking over the striped umbrellas out to the rocks and the yachts bobbing up and down on crystal blue water is enough to forgive anything!
If you’re after a more laid-back beach club experience, I highly recommend Il Faro. It overlooks the lighthouse in Ana Capri, and in the afternoon, you’ll see the locals diving off the huge rocks protecting the bay. It’s quite something to behold.
If laid back isn’t quite your style, you’ll love the outrageously glam Il Riccio. One of the few beach clubs whose restaurant has a Michelin star. The club is part of the Capri Palace hotel and spa. It’s very close to the famous Blue Grotto, so arrive and leave by private boat for a really VIP day out.
Bars
Having an aperitif before dinner is really something special on Capri. Some of our favorite spots to go to are The Lookout bar, which, as its name suggests, has a spectacular view of the sea and the Faraglioni rocks. The Piazzetta, the main plaza on Capri, is the best place to sit and people-watch. Also, the terrace at the hotel Quisisana is another lovely place to sit and enjoy a glass of champagne and watch the world go by.
Restaurants
A tourist hot spot that is also fabulous? Not possible, you think, well I assure you, Paolino lemon trees is a fantastic restaurant where you’ll dine in among the lemon trees. Heaven. It’s popular with locals, celebrities, and tourists alike, always busy with great food and a wonderful ambiance.
Aurora is another hotspot. Often difficult to get a table, and you’ll be standing outside shoulder to shoulder with celebs waiting to be seated—lovely food, and definitely a fun night out.
The restaurant of the Hotel Villa Brunella is a lovely little spot off the beaten track, along the picturesque Tragara walk. The restaurant has the most beautiful views, and the lemon risotto is divine!
Shops
Bring your credit card folks, you’re going to do a lot of spending! Yes, there are all the normal high-end designer stores, and they’re fabulous, but if you go off the main street “Via Camarelle” you’ll find lots of interesting local boutiques. Here are some of my favorites.
Laboratorio Capri. Just off Via Camarelle, this little boutique is an absolute gem. Designer Michele works with his family and local artisans to produce all the garments in the store. It’s one of my favorite places to go. The pieces I have from there are some of my most treasured.
Another little boutique I like is called Yam Capri, they have fabulous clothes and accessories. I especially love their quirky local T-shirts.
If you’re looking for some homeware, I love the Aurora glassware shop in Ana Capri. They have the most gorgeous Murano glassware. Perfect for when you get home and want to keep reliving the Capri dream.
Local perfumery Carthusia is also wonderful for travel gifts. Take home some deliciously smelling treats and feel like you’re still there in among the beautiful Bougainvillea flowers.
Things to do and see
The Monte Solaro chairlift in Ana Capri is incredible, as you slowly make your way up to the top of the mountain, you will see sights that will make your heart skip a beat. When you get to the top, the sights get even better as you look down over Capri, the sea, and the Faraglioni rocks. It’s what heaven must look like.
A private boat trip around the Island really the best way to see all the beauty my favorite Island has to offer. And it’s so peaceful being away from it all. The little wooden boats of the Island are reasonably priced, and you will get a chance to go inside the spectacular Blue Grotto and take a swim around the coves. I cannot recommend this enough.
The perfect day
Now you know all my favorite places to go, how will you spend your perfect first day there?
Start your day with an espresso in the Piazzetta, then make your way to one of the beach clubs. On your way back to your hotel, do some shopping in the local boutiques and take a walk along the Tragara walk to see the Faraglioni rocks. In the evening watch, the sun goes down with a cocktail, then head to dinner. After a gelatto at the little ice cream shop Buonocore, make your way to the little music club Taverna Anema e Core. I promise you will have a fun and wild night out. With lots of dancing on tables and singing along with the house band to Italian pop classics.
Really what more could anyone want?
Text by Pamela McKillop
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