I arrived at Bodrum Milas Airport just as the late-afternoon light was softening the Aegean sky into hues of honey and rose. Stepping through baggage claim, I found myself guided out to the forecourt, where a sleek, white Range Rover with a spade sign sat waiting. Spade is the Maçakızı Bodrum insignia—elegant, discreet, unmistakable. The driver, with a warm smile, loaded my bags, and off we went.
As we rolled away from the airport, the road wound through olive groves and citrus orchards, the smell of orange blossom tugging at the senses. The hills around Bodrum glowed in late-September sunshine; how lucky I’d come late in the season, when the weather is yet very warm, skies clear, the sea a living turquoise, and the nights not chilly yet. The drive took about 45 minutes, each kilometer bringing us closer to Türkbükü, that charming bay in the north of the peninsula. We passed quaint villages, whitewashed houses with terracotta roofs, and finally, gulls wheeling overhead in the warming air.
Pulling at the Maçakızı Hotel, I was met with the full spectacle: walls of bougainvillea in flaring magenta, olive trees centuries old, fragrant oleander blossoms, and citrus trees heavy with fruit. The gardens are lush but artfully tamed, not overgrown; everywhere one looks, art—sculptures, installations, contemporary Turkish pieces—is woven seamlessly into the landscape.
The name Maçakızı means “Queen of Spades” in Turkish—a moniker given to Ayla Emiroğlu, the hotel’s founder, famed for her beauty, intellect, and power. The hotel is named in her honour. Her son, Sahir Erozan, who runs Maçakızı Bodrum now, inherited not just the space but her artistic soul. Ayla was an art collector, a woman for whom gathering exceptional pieces—paintings, ceramics, sculpture—was as instinctive as breathing. That sensibility is everywhere here.
Once inside the open-air lobby full of art pieces, vintage Turkish rugs, contemporary lighting, and a discreet bar, I was offered refreshments, and within minutes, a porter appeared with my bags, whisking me off to my room.
Walking through the hotel, you sense the architecture is modest but intentional. Whitewashed façades, steps that terrace down toward the water, pathways snaking through fragrant shrubs and flowering plants. Every balcony, every terrace seems to have been placed to frame sea views, or to catch the scent of jasmine, or the curve of a bougainvillea shoot. The thermal comfort is excellent—even in hotter midday, shade and breeze from the sea conspire to moderate the heat.
Maçakızı Bodrum is truly at its radiant best from May until the end of October. That stretch makes it one of the most desirable beach resort destinations in Turkey, and I would argue, globally. There is a fashion to Bodrum now, and Maçakızı sits at the tip of the spear: stylish, trend-setting, but never losing what I call “rooted elegance.”
The Rooms & Suites
After passing through corridors scented with sea salt and citrus, I entered my Sea View Suite, about 70 sqm: a spacious room with a king-size French bed, a lounging area separated by low screens, bathroom with a rain shower. The colors are muted, linen whites, soft beiges, pale stone, travertine flooring. Gorgeous sheer curtains that billow in the breeze. The balcony looked directly out over Türkbükü Bay, dotted with white sails, the shimmering blue sea, the horizon softened by pine-clad hills.
Other types: Garden View Suites (52 .5 sqm), Villas (including a Sea View Villa Suite with 150 sqm, two ensuite bedrooms, huge terrace), Junior Suites, Sea-View Junior Suites. All are carefully designed with terraces or balconies. Underfloor heating in cooler seasons; amenities like Acqua Di Parma; Bose sound systems; remote black-out curtains; top-notch wifi.
Garden, Sea & Location
The garden is one of the most enchanting parts. Winding paths through olive trees; bougainvillea that drapes over pergolas; hidden nooks under palms or magnolias where you might lounge with a book or simply sit and watch the afternoon light soften.
Then there are the sea views: the bay is calm, the water crystalline and clean; the horizon always teasing. The hotel sits just above the coastline, on terraces that gradually descend toward the private beach. The harbour/village of Türkbükü is close by—a pretty local harbour with fishing boats, cafés, a gentle bustle when people come and go, but nothing overwhelming.
The decking is spectacular. There is a large wooden deck over the water; a beach club that gives shade and comfort and elegance in equal measure. Stylish cushions, awnings; you feel the rhythm of sea, sun, scent. In the late afternoons, the deck becomes a stage: for sundowners, for the light to fade, for music.
Breakfast & Morning Delight
Mornings are slow and delicious here. Breakfast is both buffet and à la carte: fresh fruit, fresh local bakery, cheeses, charcuterie, olives, and fresh vegetables picked perhaps that very morning. There is honey, yoghurt, and preserves. The à la carte options—with omelettes, local egg dishes—are excellent. Everything tastes of freshness: produce crisp, bread fragrant, juice bright, coffee rich.
My favourite: the cheese selection and fresh vegetables—tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers—so simple but perfect. The breads—light, crusted, warm—served alongside butter that melts just so. You start the day feeling both nourished and enchanted.
Dining Venues & Culinary Excellence
Maçakızı Restaurant is the flagship, led by Chef Aret Sahakyan, now Michelin-starred (since 2023). The philosophy here is Mediterranean in its bones, Turkish in spirit; seasonal, sustainable, respectful of local producers. The dinner offering includes Turkish staples with a Maçakızı twist: seafood, salads, and lighter fare.
Ayla, the newer fine-dining restaurant, is a tribute to Ayla Emiroğlu. The view is elevated, the setting elegant yet unpretentious. I recommend the tasting menu: multiple courses that showcase local fish, vegetables, creative pairings—e.g., sea bean couscous with summer truffle; tuna tartare with pickled blueberry sorbet; scorpion fish lakerda; dry-aged grouper with nettle leaves, lamb loin with walnut & charred pepper.
CafeMed, positioned on the beach deck, is more relaxed: seafood, fresh local ingredients, bright flavours, ideal for lunch or a cozy dinner with sea breeze and waves below.
Each restaurant enjoys a view—sea, sky, garden, light dancing on water. Dining feels like theatre: slow, sensory, connected to this place.
Wellness, Spa, Extras
After a long beach day, nothing compares to the signature hammam ritual at the spa—steam, massage, the scent of eucalypt, the tingle of warm marble. The spa is calm and stylish; a marble hammam overlooking the sea; therapists are skilled. The gym is generous: indoor space with modern machines, plus outdoor options overlooking the sea—yoga or stretching by dawn.
Maçakızı offers yacht and boat transfer options, so you can explore the areas nearby or simply cruise for sunset. The hotel also has shuttle services (for trips into the village, for exploring local markets, or venturing down to Bodrum town if you wish). All arranged smoothly: you ask, they deliver.
Service & Atmosphere
From the moment the Range Rover carried me from the airport, service was graceful, unhurried but entirely attentive. Staff learn your name; anticipate small needs; nothing feels forced. They move quietly yet efficiently. Night brings gently lit lanterns, background music that is soothing rather than showy, laughter—all the while a strong sense of relaxation.
Final Impressions
Maçakızı Bodrum is more than a hotel; it feels like an immersive experience of place. It is floral, artful, elegant, beautifully local yet cosmopolitan. A place to savour light and sea, to disconnect in luxury, to eat astonishing food, to rest. For me, this is one of those rare gems where every detail—from the moment you land to the drift of bougainvillea petals at twilight—feels perfectly considered.
If you have the chance, I highly recommend staying in one of the sea-view suites; dining at Maçakızı Restaurant and Ayla with the tasting menu; doing the hammam; and taking a dusk cruise from the private beach. Maçakızı Bodrum is a destination for memory, for refinement, for delight!
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